Thursday, April 30, 2009

I have no time to style my hair!


So may times I hear, "Can you come home with me and do my hair everyday?" or " When I do my hair it never looks like this again." Why do we feel so helpless with our hair sometimes? One day it behaves, tomorrow it doesn't. What is the secret?

The advice that I give is dependant on the person because it's one or the other, don't try too hard....or two, you gotta try SOMETHING!

We are all put into three categories. The product and styling junkie. New tools, new smoothing serums, new brushes and shampoo. Fluffers, scrunchers, and teasers. You want to look good and you take the time to do it.

Then there's the I don' t have the time/talent girl. You shower, you comb and that's all your hair can hope for. You can't be bothered to style that hair. (mmmm sleep)

Then there is the in between gal's. You only put the effort forth when there's an occasion for it. But most of the time, you just blow it dry, throw it up in a pony, put a bit of product in and away you go.

I find that most people over think the hair. It is easy to deal with your hair as long as you remember a few simple rules. Unless you rock at taming the tresses, Don't fight your hair...it will always win. Next no haircut, product,nor hairdresser is a magician waving a wand and POOF perfectly "styled" hair with zero effort. If you take a bit of time based on your lifestyle you too can look more polished. Your hair can say a lot about you. How do you want to be percieved?

1. Obvious, chose the right cut. MEDIUM length hair needs the MOST styling and therefore most effort. SHORT can be a FAST and easy. Minimal blow drying, or air dry, a bit of gel or wax and away you go. LONG is great for VERSATILITY if you are creative or skittish. Easily worn up, and can be curled and straightened if you have the time.

2. Find a good blow dryer, iron, curlers or diffuser for the look you are creating. Invest in the right tool. it will cut you time/effort significantly as well as any damage.

3. Hair accessories. Clips, bands, scarves for the days you have to run out. It will look like you put some effort in.

4. If you can do it, it is a huge time saver.(and hair saver) Put the effort into a good blow dry and let it last a couple days, Put it up on the last day. Add some baby powder or dry shampoo to the roots to soak up the shine at the roots. (I go 6 days, curly hair lasts longer with this method) Bumble and Bumble make a great coloured hair powder in a can! It's pretty $$ though :(

5. If you have natural curly hair, Add your favorite product when your hair is more on the damp side. Saturate each strand from scalp to ends. Comb through with a VERY WIDE tooth comb. Twist sections into the parting you like. Air dry or diffuse. DO NOT TOUCH or SCRUNCH until it's DRY. Very important. The hair is setting, and will get frizzy if you touch it too much during the drying process. ( products I like are creamy leave in conditioners, non oily straightening balms like Fructis Sleek and Shine anti frizz smoothing cream, Phytodefrizzant, L'Oreal liss extreme leave in)

6. Short hair needs some product to do anything. Every short hair cut needs a small arsenal of gunk for different occasions. Gel or straightening balm (thick) mouse (fine) for the on the go slick look. A wax, paste or clay in the desired amount of hold you like. Apply to dry hair only. Good for messy, textured looks. Small head bands and clips look nice in short hair too, more girly.

7. Please don't dump your hair upside down and blast it dry. It will give your hair a limited amount of volume, yes it can be faster BUT...it also makes it FRIZZY and unmanageable. One hardly ever sees a stylist doing this to you for good reason. The nozzle directs the hair with the where you want it to go. PLUS blowing down promotes more shine because you are going with the cuticle, not against it. Unless you want to look like you stuck you finger in the light socket?

8. Finally, if you are round brushing, finger dry until your hair is nearly 75% dry before you section and use the brush. Hair will not style soaking wet. You save HUGE amounts of time here. Plus if you use irons ( flat or curly) Your hair must be 100% dry. You will scald your hair, and it will not set so it's pointless. Wet dry irons are BS. Period. What happens when you put water in a frying pan? sizzzzle, that will be your hair.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Summer Hair 2009










THE question that I am always asked is what is in style now? Well, that depends on the individual. I still condone people to stay away from trends. Look to yourself for inspiration. Not all trends look great on everyone. That being said any cut or colour and even make up for that matter can be customized to suit you.

Personally, I have pretty much stayed true to my "look" since high school. It has matured over the years, sometimes it's really in or completely out. Regardless, I know what looks good on me, I stick with it. I do tweak it though, as the times change. I usually take a huge length plunge every 2 or 3 years to jump start and revamp my style. Then the cycle starts again.

You want to stay "current." Looking dated is never good for anyone. Even the smallest of changes can give you a lift. That being said. Big changes can effect everyone differently. Some folks live for it. Others are rebelling against a break up, or peer pressure from friends. Some people are so afraid of change that it can be traumatic, like fear of looking like a boy, or their BF's/ Hubby's hating them forever. ( yes most dudes still love long hair, I hate to say it it's a sad fact) As I said change is good! But within your comfort zone.

So what is Hot right NOW? Well it is still many extremes. I have seen the return of the nineties in the last 2 years and this is still going strong. Short hair has made it's return. All fashion regurgitates every 10 years or so. Hey it's new for a next generation.

The crop, and pixie are back for the adventurist. The most popular being Agness Deyn. A higher maintenance choice. Needs regular trimming. Best for women who like to glam it up with make up and hair accessories. Don't forget your dangly earrings! It can be worn slick, messed up or ironed straight. Try fingers waves for a fancy night out.

The Bob is still here. But it's becoming more soft or more extreme. Sort blunt bobs are taking over from the POB of last year. The longer shoulder skimming bob is a great alternative for those who want to grow out last years model or are too scared to take a off too much hair. Curl, wave and sleek are all in style. Try to find something that works for your hair texture.


At the other end of the style spectrum is Long hair. It's taking it's cues from all over the place. 40's glamour, 70's Boho, and late 60's french pop stars. Heavy bangs/fringe are still a fave. as well as hair accessories, head scarfs, head bands, and clips. Try some asymmetry in your style. Pin one side up let the rest flow down.


Long hair will always be in. Styling is the key. Soft waves created with rollers or irons, the retro pin up or Hollywood starlet look. Messy beach waves, and milkmaid braids for those who don't have time for all that curling.

(tip set your dry hair in large braids overnight for a wave loose crimped look, or just a few random braids to add body, The other is set your hair in rags. Cut long strips of cloth jersey (old t shirt works well.) take dry, clean, hair in LARGE sections or you will look like Shirley Temple. Tie the ends once and loosely roll up to the scalp. Then tie again to hold in place. Sleep overnight and you got some curls and waves. I recommend that you use this as a base for messy updo's for beginners. If it's too curly mist some water all over to loosen the curl and dry with a scrunching your fingers and a dryer.)

As for colour. Spring is always a nice time to lighten things up. Since the fashion pallet this season calls for bright colours http://www.fashion-era.com/trends_2009/2009-fashion-colour-trends.htm#Spring_2009_Top_Colour_Trend_Tip You may want to keep on the natural side. Solid colour trend is still hot, as is face framing highlights. Forget about chunky Highlights (unless you're starting and emo band) It's OVER! If you like being a bit more adventurous try a placement of colour or blocking. Avoid the high contrasts, go for more of a tone on tone look.

Hues to try for blonde's, Beige, Honey, Platinum, and Gold. RED is making a huge comeback. Copper and strawberry blonde. For brunettes, try some soft highlights around the face and under layers at the nape, go for a couple shades lighter. Going too light will create brassy, streaky, high maintenance hair. All over gloss is nice as well, a shade darker then your natural. Anything goes here, chocolate, nutmeg, maybe even a hint of cranberry or blueberry?

Short Hair Trend, Old is New Again Spring Trends


So I am feeling really old. May is marking my 16th anniversary in Hairdressing. I have officially been in it long enough to see something come back in style. For the last ten years, Short hair ( well short in the REAL sense) has been a no no. Short was maybe chin length. But a pixie? NO way! I speak of course of the mainstream all hail Hollywood standard of extended locks. For the most part there is a whole generation of Millennials that have never had short hair...ever! Crazy!

Well that is changing. Thank goodness! The type of sass an confidence a short cut gives a women is a welcome change to the lady Godiva look of recent years. The difference with the pixie now is that its far more glamorous the it's grunge, Gen X version of the nineties. Fashion is more feminine. It's all about the details, softer styling and edges. Accessorise with some really great statement jewelry. (as above seen on Carey Mulligan)

The other big trend this year summer as we saw last season is Red hair. Copper and titian hues, highlighted or all over, bright and subtle. (think Karen Elson, Ashley Simpson-Wentz, and Rose McGowan)

Now long hair gals...do not fret. Long hair is still "in" But it's definitely more polished. The last few years its been all about tousled, rock and roll, or boho waves, bedhead, disheveled...whatever you wanna call it messy. No more! It's about taking time for the little details, glamour! We are seeing the return of the 40's starlet. soft and smooth waves. More structure and its gorgeous and sexy. I know it sounds like a lot of hard work. But no. If you can wield a flat iron you can wield a curling iron. If that is still too much skill, try some old school hot rollers. I recommend You Tube for styling tutorials, they are amazing to see regular folks like yourselves giving step by step instructions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9KISezxlmc

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Does make up expire?

I was watching the Tyra bank show today. I was so ticked off at the misinformation on one segment about women who don't throw out their make up. Yes we are all guilty of hanging onto stuff way too long. But she continued to quiz the audience about the shelf life of everything from lipstick, cleanser, to mascara.

I'm a make up artist. If I threw out my foundations every 3 months like she suggested I would be spending astronomical amounts replenishing my kit. RIDICULOUS! Yet again another show spreading propaganda so you buy more product. (sponser..Cover Girl, shocking!)

Here are the facts. If you treat your make up like I do, no cross contamination, leave the caps on, refrigerate liquids when not in use and use brushes and sponges. Your make up will last three times longer.

Liquid Foundation, 12 months ( most people will use it up sooner then that)

Cream foundation/Concealer, 2 years. Keep in cool dry place use clean applicators or scrap out what you need and apply.

Mascara, 3-4 months. It dries out and will have bacterial growth by that time. Don't pump air into the tube, Keep tightly closed.

Lipstick, Gloss 2-4 years or more depending on quality. I have some MAC lipsticks that I have had for 8 years they are fine. I remove my lipsticks and put them into pallets that cover. I scrape out what I need on a stick and apply with a brush. If you use the tube on your lips, it will expire faster and grow bacteria. ( I still have tubes I uses directly on my mouth but I go through them in less then a year)

Powders, eye shadows. 4 or more years. If you store them in a airtight, dark place out of moisture. They can last forever depending on their oil content.

Liner pencils. 4+ years. Keep the lid on. Keep them in a cool dry place. (they will melt or get crumbly)

Liquid Liner. 6 months, they dry out and will get bacterial growth.


Nail polish, 1 year. You will know it! (separate or thicken.)

Finally WASH you brushes!!! Every month or more. Soak them in a mild shampoo in your bathroom sink. Use fingers to work out any creamy product (with extra shampoo) Do a soaking. Rinse 2 times. Then shape the brushes with your fingers so they retain the shape. Air dry on a towel overnight. In between I dip my brushes in alcohol once a week to kill any bacteria.

DON'T SHARE YOUR MAKE UP!!! Unless you take cross contamination precautions. Herpes people! 80% of the human population have Oral Herpes otherwise know as cold sores. (and yes oral herpes can turn into genital herpes if you get it/have an outbreak and kiss etc your partner) and Pink Eye are the most common infections/virus's you could get with sharing or using expired/ unsanitized make up and brushes.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Hair Salon Hell

Bad hair days? Hair slut? ( hopping around from chair to chair you hussy!) Do you find that when you speak to your stylist you may as well speak Klingon? Well you are not alone. Many of us are unsatisfied with the services we pay good money for. How does one find a decent stylist/colourist when there are so many over whelming choices out there. Here are some tips/questions on trying to find the right person for YOU!

1. Determine the hairstyle and be prepared. Do a bit of research. If this means looking for pictures..it's OK! most stylist love visuals. A pic speaks a thousand words. I see so many people everyday that say "I don't know what I want" Then I have to play CSI for the next 10 minutes. You can't complain if you don't give someone direction.

2. Lifestyle. Are you funky, classic or conservative? High maintenance or a ponytail girl? Workout or blowout queen? Get real with what kind of work you're willing to put into the cut you get. If you know you are not going to flat iron your thick curly hair into that geometric bob everyday AND get it trimmed every 6 weeks, this is not a good option for you. Having a good cut/colour is the START of good style.

3. Ask your friends, co workers or that girl at Starbucks, "where do you get you hair done?" If you see someone on the street with hair you like, ask them! Search the net for reviews. Do you want a quiet spa, a simple studio, a euro chain, or a rocking trendy shop? Check if they have a website for price menus and photo's.

4. Expensive does not mean the best. Junior and intermediate stylists usually have the most recent training. They are up on the latest trends and techniques. Location has a lot to do with what you will pay as well. Plus there are many seniors that don't charge highway robbery. For instance, I only charge $65 for my cuts. I find that this is affordable for most. I get a great cross section of people from students, entertainers, lawyers, PR, artists and hipsters. I also find that people are more likely to maintain their hair instead of thinking it's a treat.

Ok now you found a place what next?

Ask for a consultation, They are usually free. I suggest you book it and not walk in. It may be too rushed. Bring your research with you.

Try to be positive. If you have had a bad experience try not to assume the new stylist will do the same thing to you. It is bad mojo...and stresses the stylist out. Never good. Give the history of your hair and BE HONEST!

If you don't like what they have to say, they seem distracted/indifferent or don't listen to you. You are not obligated to see them. Find someone else.

Make sure that before you begin any service, that you both have a clear idea of what is to be done and how much it will cost and the maintenance both physically and financially.

Not every stylist will get it perfect the first time. Sometimes it takes a couple cuts for the them to get the feel for you hair or personality. (Unless it's horrible) If it doesn't click after 3 cuts, move on.

My top ten beauty picks for every budget


As beauty junkie I love to know what is in my friends make up bag. I'm going to give you guys an idea of my top ten beauty essentials I can't live without. High price range and low price range.

1. My FHI flat iron. $250 I wash my hair like once a week. (yuk to some, but I have my hair trained to not get oily, I also save $ on shampoo and conditioner I go through 2 bottles a year, I style my hair one or twice a week, gives me more time to sleep, my colour never fades as well) As this is not possible without my trusty iron. The cheaper option is the Babyliss Tormaline iron which you can find at most consummer beauty supplies for less the $100

2. Dermologica, skin resurfacing cleanser.$48 It's an exfoliating cleanser I use one or two pumps. It's non irritating and a treat. Lasts me 4 months. The other FAVE, and I can't live without these is Life Brand cleansing cloths. $12 Quick make up removal for cheap!!

3. Kerastase Bain Mirror $30 and Chroma Reflect Masque $50 Luxury!!!! It makes my hair soft and super shiny and I said worth it as a bottle lasts me 6 months. At drugstore level I'm a fan of Garnier Fructis Sleek and Shine $4-6 Smells great and again leave my hair soft and shiny. It can be heavy for most people though.

4. Dermologica Instense Moisture Balance. $75 Again depending on how much I use, it's great in the day under make up, or at night. My first love and Still my summer ritual is Oil of Olay Daily SPF 15. $12 I use the lotion, the cream is too heavy.

5. Bare Essentuals spf 15 mineral foundation. $30 It's the best of the minerals I have used, It's all in one and the more you use the better coverage. It lasts forever. Looks super natural and it's great in the summer. L'oreal Bare Naturale $15 is the best drugstore I have used. the texture is kinda lumpy, but it gives great coverage and spf.

6. Neutrugena ultimate sport block, SPF 70. $18 Yes 70! I don't take chances with the sun. And based on the compliments I get on my skin it's well worth it. I am 35 and have zero wrinkles. I prefer the spray, it's nice even coverage for the hard to reach spots. The other is No Ad Babies SPF 50. It's a lotion, fragrance free and hypo allergenic, waterproof. It's 8 bucks for 16ozs

7. Make Up Forever, black matte eyeshadow. $21 This is the smooooothest shadow I have ever used. Is heavily pigmented, stays put and a pan lasts forever. I use it every day. It's my eyebrow powder, liner and for nights out my smoky eye pal. Plus the pan is double the size of MAC. Then there is MAC, carbon eyeshadow $17 another basic black. It's good but I find that it falls apart when you get to the end, it's a waste and annoying.

8. Lancome, Hypnose Mascara.$28 Love!!! Simple basic mascara. thickening, lengthening and no clumping. Only pet peeve is that it dries out quickly. :( Maybelline Volume Express $8 is my absolute fave drugstore find and it's always on sale.

9. MAC powder blush. I have several depending on my application that day. It lasts all day, and blush for me is a must. If I don't wear it I look like the walking dead. I hate to say that I don't use anything else but Mac in this area, it costs $21, but it will last you for years. Well worth it if you get a nice neutral shade.

10. Best for last. The one thing in the world I cannot live without is RED lipstick. Not for the faint of heart. I do wear several colours as well, but Red is a classic that every women should have. I have about 10 tubes in different colours and finishes. My faves, Christian Dior Rouge Dior, Celebrity Red $28 (neutral red) I prefer long lasting lipsticks and this one's texture is like silk. Second would be MAC Ruby Woo matte.$16.50 (orange red) bright, long lasting but the texture is drying so I use this more in the evening. The there's MAC RED. (blue red) I semi matte that is also nicer wearing and dramatic. Drugstore is a hard one. I find there are very few true reds out there. The can be too sheer, or cheap (bleed, dry out lips) The one I like the most is Rimmel, Red Hott. $ 7 (orange red) It's a satin finish, nice and creamy, stays put with a liner.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Save your money.

40 dollar shampoo, 200 dollar flat iron, 30 dollar foundation, 40 dollar lipstick, 50 dollar skin cleanser, 300 dollar moisturizer!

Yes, beauty costs big bucks, and you are stuffing the pockets of many companies out there. Is it worth it? The answer is different for everyone, depending on their needs. For most of us I will say no. The fact is there are great quality products and services out there in every price range, and paying more at doesn't necessarily mean you are getting the best.

I have been brutally honest with my clients for years about the pitfalls of marketing and beauty ad propaganda. I always say ask yourself, Did that (insert expensive product) actually do what it said it would? Is my hair shiny and soft, repaired, straight, frizz free? Have my wrinkles disappeared in the 6 weeks it said it would ( after 4 applications a day!) Did my lipstick last the full 6 hours without reapplication? Some will say yes, other will say HELL NO!

Do your research. A penny saved is a penny earned. We could spend hundreds a year and look in our cabinets and see bottles and tools we never use collecting dust. What is great for one person may not work for you. Don't be fooled by clever sales people. Impulse purchases can kill the wallet and leave you jaded.

Tips.

1. Try before you buy. Ask for samples, trail sizes or if the have a return policy if you are not satisfied. Hang onto receipts and bring it back if it's a dud. Check the Internet for unbiased product reviews.

2.Try not to buy in bulk. Unless you know that you will never tire of it, and you LOVE IT. Most of us will switch products frequently as we get bored of scents, or your hair/skin gets used to it. Nothing is worse then having 2 litre bottle of shampoo you're sick of.

3.The most expensive of anything is not always the best there is. Again, it's good to educate your self on ingredients. Example. dimithecone, silicone are the main ingredients in all anti frizz/smoothing serums and sprays. Prices can range from 4 bucks to a whopping $50! If your hair is thick..Serum, If your hair is fine spray. In all my years, I have never seen a huge difference with any of them.

4. If you are a Brand junkie. Hey, I'm guilty with some things. Make sure it's something you will use all the time. My fav lipstick (Christian Dior!), daily leave in conditioner (L'Oreal Liss Extreme) , compact pressed powder (Chanel!!!) Flat Iron (FHI HEAT) I use these thing almost daily, so they are worth it. There is nothing more annoying then having a Yves ST Laurent frosted blue eyeshadow that you wore New Years 5 years ago collecting dust.

5. Shockingly, I have found incredible deals in the weirdest places. Winners for instance sells brand name flat irons, products, curling irons, brushes, perfume and high end spa stuff. For half the price. Dollar stores are a trove for cotton balls, latex sponges, cosmetic bags, travel mirrors. I always take a tour down that isle.

6. Reintroduce yourself to the products you already have. 80% of the time, we use things the wrong way, or buy the wrong thing for our needs. Read instructions, and follow them. Are you using too much or too little? Do I apply on wet or dry hair? Fingers or sponge? Is my blowdryer 10 years old? (you need a new one lol) You will be shocked at how often we chuck something blaming the product, We need to look to ourselves too.

It all sounds like a lot of work right? There is something to be said about less is more. It is worth it.

Basically, assess your REAL needs. Figure out what works, and what to toss.

Can you colour you hair at home?

Well the answer is Yes! and no.

It really depends on you interest, skill, organization, and how far from your natural colour you want to go.

There are many options out there in the drugstore, and quality is far superior then in the past. So the old wives tales that you hear from hairdressers about the dangers or home dyes are BS quite frankly. The reason mistakes happen my friend is not the colour...it is you, (and that also goes for the pro who turned your hair green last year) Wrong colour selection, improper timing and application are the main culprits. Most professional lines have drugstore counterparts. I would stick to higher quality colour. (It's 6 bucks for a reason) Consult the products websites for more info, they are usually great.

Basically, home colour is safe and effective if you play by the rules.

1. You are not DRASTICALLY changing the colour. 1 or 2 shades lighter or darker is best. Anything more you need to see a pro, too much can go wrong. No Bleaching (unless you are really experienced) No going back to natural from blonde. Very tricky.

2. Your hair is in GOOD shape, not bleached, highlighted, permed, relaxed, overly dry. This is crucial. Dry and damaged hair is unpredictable, it can take too bright, too dark or not at all.

3. Root touch ups on grey hair. It is essential to chose the same exact colour every time. Write it down or save the top panel (with the brand and name of colour) in your wallet so you don't forget. If you change brands, you will get different results. Too light or dark. READ the directions. you cannot make a darker dye lighter, It has to be removed first.

4. You use enough colour for the amount of hair you have. One box of dye is enough to colour 4 weeks of roots. That is IT! If you have waited a while, have a ton of hair or want to use a semi all over you need to buy more then one box. It's like painting a house with a can of paint. If all the hair is not saturated, evenly it will will effect the final result. Unevenness, lack of coverage or extreme fadage can result. FYI If you are buying more then 3 boxes...go to the salon, it will cost nearly the same.

5. Remember the colour on the box will not always be the colour you get. Many drugstore brands have websites that can help you chose the right shade you are targeting. Hair colour is NOT opaque. Whatever is on your hair now, will effect the final result. Like kindergarten, Blue and Yellow make green rules.

6. Follow the instructions! Be prepared and organised. Have dark towels, gloves, cleanser (ajax) to remove spills on the sink. Cover yourself up. A timer or watch. Vaseline for your ears and neck ( stain free) Take you time, assemble you tools and did I mention...follow the instructions!

More questions/comments? Ask

www.garnier.ca/kim/en/index.aspx

www.lorealparis.ca/_en/_ca/products/super-category.aspx?code=Haircolor

www.clairol.ca/en_ca/index.php

the start

Hello fellow beauty queens!

I decide to use share my years of salon expertise, advice, tips and tricks to the masses. I have been a message board junkie for years now. Answering questions anonymously to folks who have had hair and make up troubles, blunders, horrors and even successes. In the salon, I'm known for my frank and honest approach to the beauty industry, hairstyling, colouring and make-up. I offer advice on a variety of subjects to everyday fashionista's to beauty Pros. This will be a great place to share your thoughts and comments as well. I love finding out about new stuff! So please ask away. I also plan on doing some product reviews, popularity polls, trend alerts, and money saving beauty idea's.

Some topics I hope to cover in the upcoming weeks. ( get your questions ready!)

Haircolour at home, what you can do, and should leave to the pros

Common haircolour blunders you can avoid.

How do I become a hairdresser?

How do I find a job in the Beauty Industry?

How do I work in film? TV? Editorial (print)?

How do I find a good stylist?

Professional vs Drugstore products...the facts.

The essentials you need to invest in, and the stuff you can cheap out on.

Can a bad hair cut be fixed? What can I do to avoid THE HORROR


Here are just a few topics, please feel free to message so I can add more.

:)