Is Ombre over?

Well if you don't know what Ombre hair colour is by now your head may as well be in the sand. It's everywhere in North America. So much so I have not seen a hair trend catch on so fast and so universally then this. Why? Every age group can where it. It's customized depending on how much contrast you like and finally it's LOW maintenance. What is not to like?

Well as a hairstylist, I loved the idea of this technique and seeing how many variations that can be achieved. I personally am getting a little bored with it. I have spent most of my life trying to be different and non trendy. I want to keep one step ahead if not ten in many cases. When something becomes so trendy that the drugstores are coming up with kits for it...for me it's over and time to move on. It has become the Rachel Cut of the 2010's That being said...It's also not going anywhere any time soon. One thing I am trying to do is keep it fresh. Toning the bleach blonds into lovely pastel pinks, blue and grey. changing the base colours and doing more subtle gradual lightness to the ends.

I was in London this past April and I was surprised to see the lack of Ombre. So this very may well be the choking last gasp of this trend. I doubt we have seen the end of it.  Here is my variation of Ombre from my latest Dark Materials Collection

Do's and Don't to growing your hair.

So day in and out I usually get at least three clients daily who are trying desperately to grow their hair out. Whether it be for change, a disastrous haircut or for a lower maintenance do. It is a daunting task requiring a lot of patience. I myself usually am in some sort of hair growing flux. Just to end up chopping it all off when I have reached my goal. So as a stylist I do give my clients recommendations on how to make this process as painless as possible.

Fun Facts.

Hair has different life-cycles. People with thin hair have shorter cycles 3-4 years for turnover ( naturally falls out and replaced) Thick hair can grow from 5-10 years or more.

Hair grows average 6 inches in one year

Eyelashes have a turnover of 4-6 weeks. that is why they never grow the same as hair on your head.

Hormones ( testosterone) is responsible for hair growth.

 Pregnant women excrete a hormone that stops thier hair from turning over ( falling out) and after the baby is born they stop producing it. This can cause all the hair that was supposed to fall out during this time to fall out quickly in a short time.

It is normal to lose up to 100 hair a day.  When your hair gets longer this can seem like a lot more. But because we SEE long hair in the drain as apposed to short hair that goes down it. 

Do's



Get your hair as one length as you can handle. Longer layers are OK but one can go much longer in between haircuts if you have a simple shape. This is especially true for those women with fine or fragile hair. More layers make the hair look stringy on the ends when you grow them out. Hair has more strength in numbers.

Do as little as possible to damage your hair, this includes washing, blow drying, colour, highlights, hair extensions, over layering or thinning/texturing the hair. You may even need to cut out as much damaged hair as possible before you try to grow some real length as it will just end up looking very fried and split.

Colour your hair as infrequently as possible. Use demi permanent colours as they promote shine and seal the cuticle of the hair. Highlights should be spaced out to 4 times a year. The lighter your hair the more overlap will occur that may cause breakage. Do this minimally. Try only touching up the roots only.

Try hair clips, accessories and a curling wand or rollers. These are there to help you disguise a grown out cut. Keep you from becoming bored.

Get a really great conditioner. Keep your ends from getting dry.

Do invest in a good serum to seal the ends of the hair and help prevent fly away hair. 

LEAVE IT ALONE! I must emphasize this.

Drink lots of water, hydrate your skin, hair body.

Hair growth comes from hormones. So there is nothing one can apply on their hair to make it grow faster. Or repair damaged hair. It is dead, you can only prevent your hair from getting worse.

Get a small trims if your hair is really damaged. If you need to put the fear of god in your stylist when you say trim...this means 1/2 inch or less. Show them your inch...a hairdresser inch is usually double.

When your hair does get long, then shape it, layer it. But continue to keep it healthy. Remember long hair is what it is. Long. It will require more manual "styling" to have...well a style. A haircut will not do it all for you. So most women will get bored of long hair.  Yes, it is cheaper, low maintenance, and easy to care for as you can put it up. One must reconcile that it does get boring and laborious to style differently everyday. You are forewarned.


DON'TS...

Cut you hair...this is simple. Do not believe in the hairdressing propaganda that "trims" make the hair grow faster. It makes their bank account grow and that's about it. How will cutting off the very hair you waited so long  to grow off  make it longer? If you're doing all of the above, ( not damaging, colouring, highlighting etc) then one could possibly go 6 or more months without cutting. I once went two years. I only dyed my roots and trimmed my fringe.

To grow out your hair it needs to be as healthy as possible. Hair is dead when it grows out of the scalp. It sees every shampoo, flat iron, highlight, sunny day, chlorine pool, tight pony tail, back combed, braided day that you live through all year. It needs as much TLC as you can give it. It can only handle so much.

You will not be able to grow out

Do drastic colour changes and corrections frequently.
Bleach and tone or over highlight your hair.
Over style it.
Use extensions frequently for long duration. Clip in or otherwise.

Want more tips check out this blog with more great tips.

 http://www.longlocks.com/how-to-grow-long-hair.htm

Spring Forcast Hair

Ok I know, it's January. I already have clients coming in and saying, "I feel so blah." I'm looking forward to spring more so this year as I will be travelling to Europe in April. What am I excited about? Fashion and shopping. Oh yes!  history, architecture and fabulous museums. I always get inspired when I travel. It's nice to see what is happening somewhere else. Even town to town, style is different.

Let's talk about hair trends for spring. I will say, I am not on board with everything I am seeing. However one thing I can say is that there seems to be something for everyone, although derivative of everything we have been seeing in the last 2 years.

Trend Wet Look. Buy some gel ladies, it's back. Wet look bun's, chignons, slick backs, and partings. Severe and messy; it's all inclusive. So for those who cannot bother with a blow dryer or have been rocking this all their lives? I find this to be my least favorite.

Trend Powered Pastel. Kevin Murphy kinda brought this back. Coloured matte hair powered, for temporary colour fun. Ombre your ends or slick all your hair back and add some the hairline. Interesting and non permanent

Trend MESSY, Yeah messy back combed up dos. Hair in general. The frizzy ratty mess the better. Editorials have been doing controlled mess for a while. So if you don't want to look like a hot mess, DO NOT do this while dressing down. You need to play up the contrast with great dramatic eyes, and a dress.

Trend Short Bangs,  Baby bangs, shorter pixies like Michelle Williams. Cropped and rocked out.

Trend 90's Texture, Remember the Meg Ryan? Well if you do you most likely will not participating in this one. But for the under 30's this shag is a nice option to the pixie.

Trend Waves. Yawn.... of all kinds, on long hair, on bobs (flapper style) this is a sleeker polished look for those who don't want to look like they just rolled out of bed.

Trend Retro Glamour. So anyone who is into rockabilly or pin up culture, it is now hitting more mainstream fashion. Victory rolls, finger waves, pin curls, 60's Bardot beehives.

Trend Colour, Ombre...yes still . Now this has become so popular it's literally boring me now. Dip dye, high contrast, crazy colour, sunkist. It can be customised to any length or age. But to be frank if you want to look on trend this is THE look.

Trend Colour, Block Panels. Again, this is a easy update. we first saw this in the ear;y 2000's making a comeback so soon? Yes.  This is best if it's done with a high contrast colour or pastel synthetic colour. Clip in or tape in some hair extensions if you want a no commitment.

Trend Colour, Airbrush. I know this sounds crazy. But for the bold you can stencil colour onto the surface of your hair. Brocades, lace, paisley, zebra, cheetah, polka dots. Hey why not?

2011 Beauty hits and Misses Part 2, Hair Care

Ok so to round out the end of year regrets and triumphs, here is part two of  MY beauty hits and misses, hair care edition.



Hits

1. Frizz Ease 3 day straight. It's a spray keratin that helps lock in you flat iron form humidity and re curling. It works and was great in the summer.

2. Kevin Murphy, Hair Resort. beach wave and texture, smells amazing!

3. Loreal Everpure shampoo. I like the tube, it's rather thick, but decently priced for sulfate free shampoo.

4. Batiste dry shampoo. cheap and it works

5. Fructis, Instant Mask Repair, nice thick conditioner, made my very damaged hair feel soft. Smells lovely. good for dry thick hair.

6. Rusk 2.5" curling iron, any curl iron is great really I like the Rusk products. they are pro quality and you can usually find them anywhere.

7.  Loreal Elnet hairspray. Amazing and cheap, industry favorite.

8. Sebastian Laminates Cellophane's. I was blond for most of the year. I used the platinum to tone my hair every 4 shampoos. Semi colour, adds shine. easy to use. it is a pro product and pretty pricey, but one could get it on amazon.com. it works much better then most colour enhancing conditioners.

MISS

1. Kevin Murphy Texture Master hairspray. It is a sticky super hold hair spray. Unless you want to look like Amy Winehouse or Robert Smith, it is not workable to the average Jane. nozzle gets clogged every time I use it.

2. Kevin Murphy Colour Bug, temporary fun colour powder. I'm waiting for more shades. They only have three and I liked it for a day then I never used it again.

3. Loreal, Sublime Mousse hair colour. This stuff was weird. I liked it in someways, east to use, no mess, no bad smell, but the results were just so so. I used black and it turned out 3 shades lighter. So coverage was not great.

4. mini crimper. I used it twice, it is now for photo shoots only.

5. loads of Big Bow clips and hair bands fascinators  I don't know why I would think I'm allowed to wear something Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, or your average 16 year old would wear. I am having a hard tie reconciling that I'm 38.

6. FHI heat iron. I have bought many of these irons since the company launched. The quality in my opinion has gone down. I had my last two for less then 6 months before everything was falling apart and the thermostat failed.

2011 Beauty hits and Misses Part 1, Cosmetics

Every year I end up looking at my graveyard of cosmetics and it got me to thinking that even I can be a sucker for good marketing, cute packages, and empty promises. I generally do my reaseach when purchasing something now a days but every now and then I will buy something spontaniously and yes, I am most time disappointed. But sometimes I am pleasantly surprised.

This years HITS

Illumasqua Foundation, High coverage, looks natural, great skin tone. I use this for photo shoots and evening make up

Sephora Cream lip Stain, l I usually stay clear of store brands, I know its generally really overpriced for the quality, but this was a pleasant surprise. It had great colour selection, and didn't dry my lips like other ultra matte' do.

L'oreal True Match Foundation, very affordable, medium coverage. wears beautifully, blends nice, and does match my skin.

Benefit Coralista Blush got this as a bonus and I love the colour. I am told is goes with every skin tone they are right.

MAC Matchmaker Foundation, AMAZING! Great medium coverage and it matches. No NC this or NW that. Just pick your level ( mine is 1) and it adjusts to your undertone.

OPI Crackle Nail polish ( Black) I ended up using this all the time. Love it over glitter nail polish or over clear.

Paula's Choice Skin Care LOVE this line. Its my new standard. Very easy and affordable. Addresses every skin care need. I have had the best skin ever from this line. Mail order only.

MiSS

MAC Zoom Lash, clumpy, dries out after a month

MAC Wonder Woman Opulash Mascara, didn't show up on my lashes, dried out fast.

MAC Superslick Liner, Pure show (gold) seperated and didn't show up on my pail skin, irritated my eyes.and made them water, weird because the black does not.

Chanel Rouge Allure Lipstick 64, too sheer for me, lasted about 5 minutes, bled around my mouth,  even with a primer and liner.

Nars Sheer Matte foundation. even with a primer, I look like a dried up dusty old woman. For oily skin only

Make up Forever HD powder, AWFUL! I may as well use baby powder on  my skin. was not translucent at all.

Make Up Forever Primer, wasn't terrible, just expensive and didn't do much more then a moisturizer would before make up. nothing lasted longer or smoothed out any better.

Touche Eclat YSL. I know... almost blasphemous. But it really is just OK on me. I have seen it do wonders on other people. I am going to try the peach next time. I think my dark circles need more coverage. the search continues. MAC and L'oreal also make knock offs so I will try that too.

Neutrogena Healthy Skin moisturizer SPF15. This was supposed to be my new daytime moisture with SPF and AHA. It cannot be used near the eye, ( my bad) because it burns like crazy. So I ended up getting separate creams instead of the all in one. It's actually better. So much for time saving.

Sephora Kat Von D Eye shadow Love and Fury. It is OK, but I ended up using it twice and only for one of the shadows. the rest were too glittery.

MAC Penultimate Brow Marker. Dried out after two applications. was not smudge proof.

MAC Liquidlast liner. I love the colours, the texture is thick and hard to work with. I dilute it. It gets thicker over time so after a month it's nearly useless. It does last though...for days.

Marc Jacobs, Daisy. Bottle is cute, smells like ass on me.

Frugal Best in Beauty All Time

1, Baby Oil.
This is my go to for everything. Great for moisturizing after the bath, removes make up, removed wax, removes latex bonding glue. eyelashes and weaves. shines your shoes, quick hand lotion, shave your legs, massage oil...the list goes on and on. http://projectfidgetyfingers.blogspot.com/2010/02/45-uses-for-baby-oil.html

2. Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly.
cream for chapped chip, lips, hands, elbows, cuticles DIY  lip glosses and many more uses
http://www.christinaloves.com/2008/09/13/50-uses-for-vaseline/

3. Brown Sugar
Cheap and plentiful is amazing when you add it to a baby oil or you favorite cleanser as a exfoliating BODY scrub in the shower. Not recommended for the face.

4. Baking Soda
brush you teeth, use with water or cleanser to mix into a paste for a gentle facial exfoliate. Under arm deodorant, use to remove product build up in the hair before shampooing, foot soak

5. Apple Cider Vinegar
hair rinse to add shine and close the cuticle after a colour. dilute with  rose water and distilled water and it's a great toner for acne prone skin, drinking it is supposed to treat age spots, rinses away dry dead skin fro the scalp.

Winter hair woe is me...

Yes it's upon up another Canadian winter. Harsh temperature changes, hats, dry scalp, fly away static hair. Just when you think... Hurray no more humid frizzy hair days. They make way for parched summer hay textured hair and flaking scalps. What to do? Well here are some steps to help combat those winter woes.

Start in the shower.  You may need to change up the routine and start using a more moisturizing conditioner. add a leave in as well depending on you hair texture either a cream (thick, course or curly hair) Or liquid spray for normal to fine types. It will add more moisture and protect the hair from and dryer damage. Try to use cool water. I know its cold out there! but really hot showers actually case the hair, skin and scalp to dry out and cause flaky dryness. if you ca find it try Wen Cleansing conditioner. This stuff is amazing for any hair texture and colour. Its a one step cleanser/conditioner/leave in. It does NOT lather, or contain sulfates, detergents. Will not strip colour or moisture from you hair. It feels amazing and doesn't leave a trace of greasiness on the hair.
http://www.wenhaircare.com/whyitsunique.php

Washing hair daily is a no no. It is a great time to start using the dry shampoo. The more you wash they dryer you hair will get.

Go darker or richer with you hair color. Add a clear rinse or tone the hair down a couple of shades with a demi permanent. Garnier has a great selection of ammonia free gloss colours. if you don't want to go darker, try a gloss. It will close up the cuticle and add tons of shine to the dull locks. It can be done every 4 weeks to keep it up. darker hair will reflect more light and make even the most damaged hair look better. The lighter you are the dryer it will look if you don't like to style it.

Try to allow your hair to dry naturally if you can manage it. Blow dryers damage the hair and with the lack of humidity can cause the hair to get static. To prevent this. try not to shuffle you feet across the floor it builds up the electrical charge. Use a dryer sheet. Rub it on your hands and then rub through your hair. Static Guard sprayed on you brush or hands will also do the trick. Use natural bristle brush as apposes to nylon or plastic brushes. Ceramic or tourmaline irons a re great. The will neutralize the positively charged hair and remove the static.





Moroccan Oil is on every one's lips these days. This expensive little bottle of oil is turning up everywhere and there are many imitators. The line now boasts an entire regime around Argan Oil but does it actually work? We as consumers have to remember a couple things. All a company needs to take off is a couple celebrity endorsements and the marketing placebo will take effect. The ingredients say it all. Argan oil is a fantastic moisturizing oil that contains many anti oxidants, but so it Olive, Almond, Brazil Nut, Hemp Seed basically any nut really. It's fat and it will coat the hair. Hair my friends is dead. and antioxidants will do very little to "revitalize" it. One would need a great deal of this oil to coat the hair for and real noticeable benefits. And that would be outrageously expensive.

 The other main ingredient is Silicone. Serums have been around forever and they deliver some smoothing effects to the hair. End result leave it looking shiny and feeling soft. Is it a miracle? Not really. Just overpriced oil. Check out the health food store and get some pure almond oils or cold pressed olive oil. Any cheap silicone spray, serum will work as well. Like anything this is a fad. If you like it by all means use it. But there are some cheaper options out there. Just remember that if you hair is thick, curly or coarse use a serum. If it's fine, thin, use a spray.

Cheap serums.. Citre Shine, Frizz Ease, Sebastian Laminates, L'Oreal Ever Sleek Serum, One and Only Argan Oil Treatment.

Fall Winter 2011 trends to watch!

The 70's are back whether we like it or not. It seems it's not localized to the early Hippy/Boho and Mod inspired as in the past but also the Glam Rock mid 70's and the Disco/Punk rock/New wave latter 70's for fashion. I find the hair and makeup seems to be all over the place again this year and does not mesh with the fashion trends. So at least that keeps it modern. There is a lot of choice. I will be happy when the tired Kardashian LA look is over. Let's keep our finger crossed.

Hair. the mid length bob with minimal layers and heavy fringe. Kate moss has been rocking this for a while but it's big this season either blown straight with volume or tousled waved. For long hair, Braids and Bouffant styles are all the rage this season for those wanting to get away from the top knot and surfer girl looks this summer. Amy Winehouse RIP, beehives and Bardot volume gives a nice sex kitten touch. Pixie cuts with lots of texture and softness in the fringe are a great option. Hair colours are going darker and richer are usual. Still in the copper range. For blondes more natural golden/honey shades are great for fall. Perhaps try ombre but with a darker shade like copper, or pinky coral.

Makeup. The metallic bronze, bright orange, and gunmetal smokey eye with nude lips for the evening. Nude makeup, neutrals ( very 70's) looks great on everyone. The strong lip and nude face is big again but with brighter/darker shades. orange, red, purple. Eyebrows are BACK. The last two seasons everyone was reaching for the bleach and the no eyebrow look that Karen Elson and Lara Stone pioneered was everywhere. For fall think Brook Shields meets Liz Taylor meet Audrey Hepburn. Not my favourite and I personally will not be partaking. As I have no eyebrows to speak of. I find this trend strange as it does not reflect the 70's theme. Brows where plucked and thin like the starlets of the 30's or natural. I find that fashion always has a 4 year flow then a backlash that goes against the former trends. So hey maybe thin brows in a couple years? Thick liner and nude lips are still rocking, might be the Amy Winehouse as well. Blush seems to be nonexistent in most of the tears I have seen. But contouring and pale complexion was big. ( also not very 70's)

Thinking about Keratin Straightner?

Well I have been thinking about writing about this for ages. I will preface this with...This is MY opinion on this subject as a beauty pro. I get clients asking me about this service time and time again. It came out a few years ago and has steadily replaced Japanese Straightening and the number one smoothing service around. It claims the following for the clients...

That it causes no damage, is fairly natural as it used a form on protein similar to what our hair is made of. It can be used to repair damaged hair, used in conjunction with other chemical services without adverse reaction. Its semi permanent so one could get this done approximately every 10-12 weeks. So there are no lasting effects if one should want to stop. It cuts drying time down to half. It does not straighten course hair but will make it smoother, easier to dry straighten, and anti humidify it as well.

Marketing this to the stylist goes as such...

Product is inexpensive ( less then 10 an application) and needs very little to perform full service. All profit! Can be performed in the same time as an average colour/ blow dry time depending on hair and can charge upwards of $400+ per service. Clients needs to purchase special keratin shampoo and conditioner for service to last. More Profit! It's safe.

The reality...

The service is expensive, and is only semi permanent. It requires the full service to be done again at the same price within two to three months.  After one month most clients see a significant loss of smoothness as this is a coating that wears off after you wash you hair. You MUST use the keratin replenishing shampoo or you will lose the effects faster. It does not do a thing for thick coarse curly hair. This is mainly for fine to medium texture frizzy hair. Some may get away without styling or blow-drying their hair. Yes it will be faster to dry but by minutes. Many surveys have shown that a large amount of clients have had adverse reactions. Anything from allergies, breathing issues during the service, hair loss, and breakage. After the service is performed you cannot get you hair wet for three days. Nor wear it up on tucked behind you ears as that will kink in for the duration of the product. And finally the main ingredient next to the Keratin is formaldehyde. Its helps in the bonding process and as the hair is ironed it releases a toxic gas that the stylist and the client will be exposed to. Many company's have tried to down play this danger and say they do not have it in their product. Trust me they do have some for. It many have a slightly different chemical name or smaller %. But it is still an active ingredient.

As a stylist there is no way I would expose myself to performing 3 to 4 of these services a day breathing this stuff in. Especially if there is poor ventilation in the salon. In fact I am not a fan of many chemical straightening products. I am always shocked at the length women and men will go to to save precious minutes in the morning.

further reading, viewing.
http://shine.yahoo.com/channel/beauty/are-keratin-hair-treatments-dangerous-2460542/
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/retexturizing/brazilian-keratin-treatment-a-dangerous-price-to-pay-for-beauty
http://safecosmetics.org/article.php?id=771
Good Hair a documentary by Chris Rock ( yes that one) About the Afro-Carribean culture in America's obsession with so called "good hair" i.e. Silky straight hair.








.

New cheap and cheerful spring beauty

Spring is in the air! It makes me want to shop! New New New everything! However my pocket book right now says ...no. But don't despair. There are plenty of money saving products out there that will save you some bucks and you can still look fab!

Colour! Now I am still a big advocate of demi permanent colour. It's the most forgiving and least damaging option out there. However, for some that will not cover any greys. L'oreal and Clariol have come out with Foam Permanent hair dye. It promises the easiest application ever. No mess, and 100% grey coverage! Now most important thing to remember is getting the colour right! When people complain about bad results...it's usually the wrong shade or bad application. Be safe. Pick the most neutral colour. Ash colours will be darker, and anything that says "gold" will be really warm (red brassy) The only concern I have is retouching the roots with mousse? Strawberry blonde and copper are very trendy now. I would still stick to demi if you decide for a change down the road, it is harder to remove permanent.

Highlights should be left to the pros. Grown out colour is great and the cheapest way to go through the summer. For those who wish DYI Ombre. It's actually a really easy technique called balliage. Literally hair painting. It works best if you have naturally blondish hair. Just chose a colour that is really only a couple shades lighter to start. If you have colour or dark hair or you want something more extreme go to a pro or you will look like a tie dyed tiger. Another fun option is doing a bright semi permanent or temporary shade on the ends. Pastel shade are nice like yellow, orange or pink. They will wash out in a few shampoos. Works best on blonde hair. Use Manic Panic and dilute it with conditioner so it is not so neon!



http://www.lorealparis.ca/haircolour/highlights-and-professional-techniques-colour/touch-on-highlights.aspx
http://www.garnier.ca/_en/_ca/haircolour/hcl-nutrisse-cream/multi-lights-kit.htm

Try youtube for more vids on DYI Ombre!

http://schoee.blogspot.com/2010/09/diy-ombre-hair.html



You want an instant update for make up. Completion is important. Our skin is usually oily in the summer. Using a concealer and a bit of powder/bronzer is all most people need. I like using a Mineral foundation like L'oreal Bare Naturale. $15 It is everything, foundation, concealer with a dewy finish. It feels like nothing on. I am kinda old...:( so I like that it doesn't crease or look cakey. Bare Essentuals $30 has the best mineral foundation. But it's a bit more pricey. Worth it! Almay also has a new Mineral foundation out there for sensitive dry skin. Almay Wake Up $17. Don't forget the Moisturiser with SPF 15 or higher!!

Update your lips. Bright colours is an esay way to add a pop of colour.
Cargo has a great lip gloss Quad $24
Rimmel lasting finish, $7 Bright pink In Vogue, coral Alarm,
Mac new line of Sheen Supreme lipstick. High pigment gloss in intense colours. $14.50

Waves and texture are super easy for the summer. Start with a wave or beach texterizer. Kevin Murphy Beach Resort $22 great for any hair type. Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, $25 or Garnier Surf Hair comes in spray or cream $10. This works best with layered or textured hair. You just apply liberally and allow to dry naturally. This is supposed to be messy, beachy, matte waves or curls.
If messy is not your bag, and you are more sophisticated. Good old hot rollers will do the trick. use the old school ones. Modern waves are not about root volume it's more about curling the mid lenghths and ends. Try watching some podcast to get the visual how to. kevinmurphy.com has a series of DYI podcasts. for ideas.
http://www.conair.com/xtreme-instant-heat-multisized-hot-rollers-p-683-1_14.html

Trending For Spring

Been while and many new changes have happened in my life. I have changed salons after nearly 6 years in the same location. Change is good. Now that we are well into February everyone seems to have the blahs. The cold weather the drab colours and just being plain old sick and tired of staying in and doing nothing. I find as a stylist this is my quietest time of year. the calm before the storm if you will. After March break when we get the first glimpse of what is to come for spring...the calls start to flood back in. I NEED A CHANGE!!!

Well some things to look for this spring is simplicity. The 70's is a huge trend. Long hair, straight, wavy, curly you name it. Centre parts, texture and neutral tones. Think brown honey wheat and copper!

If long is not your style, the wavy shoulder length bob is going to be huge again this year. Ombre (grown out) colour will still be a hit as well. Don't forget the super cropped pixie cut think Rosemary's Baby era Mia Farrow will be great to freashen up some dull locks.

My Haircolour cost WHAT?

I was on Yelp the other day and noticed that there was lovely young lady giving rave kudos to her stylist but could not justify why her highlights cost 145 dollars ( pretty standard btw in mid to higher end salons in Toronto) I decided to demystify how salons charge for services.

There are several factors to take into consideration. As a client you definitely want to research what you want before hand. The quality you expect from the stylist, and your budget. With colour for instance. You have to consider...the service

Most salons operate on a scale of Junior to Master stylist/colourist. Let me explain further what you can expect from these people.

Junior's have less then 2 years experience in most cases. They are the interns. They have gone though all the necessary training to be a hairdresser. They just lack the experience with real clients. They can be very skilled, but sometimes have trouble communicating or interpreting what the client wants. It is totally normal to have them ask for guidance from a more senior stylist. If you do decide to go this route. It is safe to say don't have super high expectations. They are still learning and that is reflected in the rate you pay. So you may not want to get more then a trim, basic cut, or basic highlights/colour from them. If you are adventurous, let them go wild you may be very pleasantly surprised!

Intermediate, and Senior Stylists/Colourists have 5+ years on the floor experience and have taken master classes and are much better at colour correction and creative colour/cut techniques. Some may even work as trainers for a manufacturer, doing trade shows, private in salon classes or winning competitions. You will pay a premium for this experience.

You should also feel more confident that less will go wrong. Beware the "Primadonna hairstylists." You should go for a consultation for big changes. Bring pictures of what you like, communicate your expectations, ask how much it will cost BEFORE. Ask about maintenance and after care. If your stylist cannot answer your questions, or you feel uneasy that they do not "get" what you want, or they are vague with costs, thank them for their time and leave. Remember paying more does NOT mean you are getting better service. Do your research.

Most salons will have a price list or menu one can look at to get a general idea of STARTING rates for each service and stylist. It is the minimum charge. You pay for that slot of time for that service and that is the minimum it costs. Price can go up from the following things... complicated service (corrections) overly long or overly thicker then average hair. You are paying for the extra time and product this hair takes to do over the average.

Other things that can inflate price is location of salon. Trendy, boutique, or franchise salons can have a higher price structure. Owners may charge way more. Almost any stylist working in a salon with more then 15 to 40 years is going to be charging Master prices. There are also hidden costs. The colour product ( can reach into 25 dollars or more just for the dye per application) the salons commission, chair rental and taxes ( HST and GST now in Ontario) this all factors in on the final price. Also, it is totally normal for a salon to NOT include a blowdry in a colour service. That is a separate service that needs to be booked in or they offer complimentary blow off with a assistant. Again not always the case either. Ask your stylist about their polices.

I find that all problems in the salon are from miss-communication. We don't ask enough questions and assume that we are in good hands. We assume the price will be the same as before or somewhere else. We have unrealistic expectations of what we can have and we overestimate the skills of the stylists in some cases. I always likened this to how we trust and assume doctors always know best or know what they are doing or have homogeneous knowledge. This is also not always the case. The more prepared one is less sticker shock occurs.

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Finally ammonia free drugstore colour!

I am pleased to say that the L'oreal finally caught up with Clairol. Their main drugstore lines, L'oreal Paris (Healthy Look), and Garnier Fructis (Herbashine) are launching demipermanent/ammonia free hair colour. I personally as a pro, I use this type of colour on my clients 80% of the time. The benefits are huge. Less damaging, more natural looking, grey blending ( up to 20%) no visible root line ( as long as you are not going too dark or bright.) It's super shiny to boot after. Things you can NOT do with it...lighten the hair or cover substantial grey roots. But hey, it can not be everything to everyone. What I like is that it's great for those who change their hair seasonaly. It leaves little colour build up with reasonable use. It's best used on unbleached or super porous hair. Unless you go to a pro.

Tips, you need to use it all over every time as opposed to permenent dye. So make sure that you buy enough to cover your hair. One box for every 6 inches. Or 1 for fine, 2 medium, 3 for long. If you have pretty thick hair ( your might as well pay to get it done you will have to buy the same amout in product), or have damaged, bleached hair, see a pro. It's too tricky to do on your own. If you have highlights that have gone brassy, you can use one of the blonde ones as a toner. Amazing!

http://www.garnier.ca/kim/en/index.aspx?cible=herbashine

http://www.lorealparis.ca/haircolour/all-over-colour/healthy-look.aspx

Dry SHAMPOO?

Hey there guys, It's been a while but I'm back from Mama land. So I have a series coming up to make up for my absence.

So I was walking through Sephora, and browsing trough the endless bottles of new potions, lotions, and the not so new Dry Shampoos and I was aghast at the prices of these truly simply products.

First, dry shampoo is a simple concept. You spray or sprinkle it into your hair then brush it out. It's powder based and it does not actually cleanse the hair but it absorbs excess oil so one can go and extra day or more without ruining that 'do with water. It can also make thin greasy hair look thicker and fuller. The main ingredient is starch. Corn starch most times and a few added fragrance's, sometimes vitamins/herbs, milk solids, oats and preservative.

I was in shock at the prices of these VERY simple concoctions. Don't waste your money. $27 bucks on cornstarch is ludicrous! If you are not the do it yourself type and you need the ease of aerosol try a Classic... Batiste. The scent is not my cup of tea but for 8.99 it does the trick. This is easily found in a drugstore or discount department.

The next is Klorane the have two scents. You get half the amount of the Batiste, but great size for travel. 14.99 this is found in more boutique cosmetics counters in the drugstore.

Pro's Kevin Murphy Fresh Hair ( $22) has an amazing smelling dry shampoo.

If you don't mind the old school way this is the cheapest option. Use good old cornstarch or baby powder. Sprinkle a small amount in at a time to the roots evenly. Massage into the scalp an leave it in a minute to absorb the oil. The key here is...BRUSH it OUT. This is so you do not get the powdery old man wig look. Unless you like looking like Andy Warhol. :)

You can now endure another day water less to keep that fabulous blow dry, or lift the greasy fringe of your face. The great thing is that if you are washing less daily you hair will be in better condition and not so dependant on the dreaded shampoo. It will save you colour as well and some money in the long run.

Been gone a long time

Hello friends, I am sorry have been AWOL this summer. I had a beautiful baby girl and she has been taking up much of my time. I will be posting again this month new fall trends, new hair and make up products and deals, and of course answering your beauty questions.

Eco Friendly and Frugal Hair Treatments

I recently had a bit of a problem with dry scalp. I find that traditional methods to deal with this condition are a bit harsh on the hair itself. Other times they make your scalp dependent on them or worse... immune.

I like to turn to mother nature during these times (if it's mild and not an underlining medical condition) Then it got me thinking about all the fabulous hair treatments we can make in our own kitchen for CHEAP! The best part is that it actually works, saves money, and it eco friendly. (may be a bit smelly and messy)

First, you have diagnose your problem. Dull hair, dry hair, dry scalp, product build up, flat and limp, frizzy?

If you have chronic or acute flaking, itching, or scaling on the scalp. You may have more then dry scalp. Dandruff , Seborrhea, (fungal) Eczema, (allergic reaction, or environmental) and Psoriasis (genetic) are all different. Have different causes and some can be treated with medications see you your doctor to figure out exactly what you have.

So you have figured out that it is a simple flaking problem due to build up/ dry scalp. This remedy kicks ass.

Use some simple table salt and olive oil mix a paste and apply on damp hair before you wash. Massage it in and really exfoliate those flakes out. Wash out the mixture. Condition as usual and this is the trick here...apple cider vinegar. It clarifies the scalp, kills any yeast ( acidic) closes the cuticle ( shine!) and doesn't make you smell like a salad. Try it! I did this twice a week until I saw improvement. Now I only do it once a month. It also helps to invest in a scalp massage brush. They are usually round plastic short bristle brushes used while you shampoo they hair. It will loosen any dead skin from the scalp, so less flaking there. Rinse well!

I would also like to note that the number one reason one would see flakes and dryness is improper rinsing. We are all in such a hurry daily. I myself am guilty of the 20 second shampoo rinse in the shower. I am going to stress that step one to flake free locks is rinse rinse rinse that shampoo out!

I have no time to style my hair!

So may times I hear, "Can you come home with me and do my hair everyday?" or " When I do my hair it never looks like this again." Why do we feel so helpless with our hair sometimes? One day it behaves, tomorrow it doesn't. What is the secret?

The advice that I give is dependant on the person because it's one or the other, don't try too hard....or two, you gotta try SOMETHING!

We are all put into three categories. The product and styling junkie. New tools, new smoothing serums, new brushes and shampoo. Fluffers, scrunchers, and teasers. You want to look good and you take the time to do it.

Then there's the I don' t have the time/talent girl. You shower, you comb and that's all your hair can hope for. You can't be bothered to style that hair. (mmmm sleep)

Then there is the in between gal's. You only put the effort forth when there's an occasion for it. But most of the time, you just blow it dry, throw it up in a pony, put a bit of product in and away you go.

I find that most people over think the hair. It is easy to deal with your hair as long as you remember a few simple rules. Unless you rock at taming the tresses, Don't fight your hair...it will always win. Next no haircut, product,nor hairdresser is a magician waving a wand and POOF perfectly "styled" hair with zero effort. If you take a bit of time based on your lifestyle you too can look more polished. Your hair can say a lot about you. How do you want to be percieved?

1. Obvious, chose the right cut. MEDIUM length hair needs the MOST styling and therefore most effort. SHORT can be a FAST and easy. Minimal blow drying, or air dry, a bit of gel or wax and away you go. LONG is great for VERSATILITY if you are creative or skittish. Easily worn up, and can be curled and straightened if you have the time.

2. Find a good blow dryer, iron, curlers or diffuser for the look you are creating. Invest in the right tool. it will cut you time/effort significantly as well as any damage.

3. Hair accessories. Clips, bands, scarves for the days you have to run out. It will look like you put some effort in.

4. If you can do it, it is a huge time saver.(and hair saver) Put the effort into a good blow dry and let it last a couple days, Put it up on the last day. Add some baby powder or dry shampoo to the roots to soak up the shine at the roots. (I go 6 days, curly hair lasts longer with this method) Bumble and Bumble make a great coloured hair powder in a can! It's pretty $$ though :(

5. If you have natural curly hair, Add your favorite product when your hair is more on the damp side. Saturate each strand from scalp to ends. Comb through with a VERY WIDE tooth comb. Twist sections into the parting you like. Air dry or diffuse. DO NOT TOUCH or SCRUNCH until it's DRY. Very important. The hair is setting, and will get frizzy if you touch it too much during the drying process. ( products I like are creamy leave in conditioners, non oily straightening balms like Fructis Sleek and Shine anti frizz smoothing cream, Phytodefrizzant, L'Oreal liss extreme leave in)

6. Short hair needs some product to do anything. Every short hair cut needs a small arsenal of gunk for different occasions. Gel or straightening balm (thick) mouse (fine) for the on the go slick look. A wax, paste or clay in the desired amount of hold you like. Apply to dry hair only. Good for messy, textured looks. Small head bands and clips look nice in short hair too, more girly.

7. Please don't dump your hair upside down and blast it dry. It will give your hair a limited amount of volume, yes it can be faster BUT...it also makes it FRIZZY and unmanageable. One hardly ever sees a stylist doing this to you for good reason. The nozzle directs the hair with the where you want it to go. PLUS blowing down promotes more shine because you are going with the cuticle, not against it. Unless you want to look like you stuck you finger in the light socket?

8. Finally, if you are round brushing, finger dry until your hair is nearly 75% dry before you section and use the brush. Hair will not style soaking wet. You save HUGE amounts of time here. Plus if you use irons ( flat or curly) Your hair must be 100% dry. You will scald your hair, and it will not set so it's pointless. Wet dry irons are BS. Period. What happens when you put water in a frying pan? sizzzzle, that will be your hair.

Summer Hair 2009

THE question that I am always asked is what is in style now? Well, that depends on the individual. I still condone people to stay away from trends. Look to yourself for inspiration. Not all trends look great on everyone. That being said any cut or colour and even make up for that matter can be customized to suit you.

Personally, I have pretty much stayed true to my "look" since high school. It has matured over the years, sometimes it's really in or completely out. Regardless, I know what looks good on me, I stick with it. I do tweak it though, as the times change. I usually take a huge length plunge every 2 or 3 years to jump start and revamp my style. Then the cycle starts again.

You want to stay "current." Looking dated is never good for anyone. Even the smallest of changes can give you a lift. That being said. Big changes can effect everyone differently. Some folks live for it. Others are rebelling against a break up, or peer pressure from friends. Some people are so afraid of change that it can be traumatic, like fear of looking like a boy, or their BF's/ Hubby's hating them forever. ( yes most dudes still love long hair, I hate to say it it's a sad fact) As I said change is good! But within your comfort zone.

So what is Hot right NOW? Well it is still many extremes. I have seen the return of the nineties in the last 2 years and this is still going strong. Short hair has made it's return. All fashion regurgitates every 10 years or so. Hey it's new for a next generation.

The crop, and pixie are back for the adventurist. The most popular being Agness Deyn. A higher maintenance choice. Needs regular trimming. Best for women who like to glam it up with make up and hair accessories. Don't forget your dangly earrings! It can be worn slick, messed up or ironed straight. Try fingers waves for a fancy night out.

The Bob is still here. But it's becoming more soft or more extreme. Sort blunt bobs are taking over from the POB of last year. The longer shoulder skimming bob is a great alternative for those who want to grow out last years model or are too scared to take a off too much hair. Curl, wave and sleek are all in style. Try to find something that works for your hair texture.


At the other end of the style spectrum is Long hair. It's taking it's cues from all over the place. 40's glamour, 70's Boho, and late 60's french pop stars. Heavy bangs/fringe are still a fave. as well as hair accessories, head scarfs, head bands, and clips. Try some asymmetry in your style. Pin one side up let the rest flow down.


Long hair will always be in. Styling is the key. Soft waves created with rollers or irons, the retro pin up or Hollywood starlet look. Messy beach waves, and milkmaid braids for those who don't have time for all that curling.

(tip set your dry hair in large braids overnight for a wave loose crimped look, or just a few random braids to add body, The other is set your hair in rags. Cut long strips of cloth jersey (old t shirt works well.) take dry, clean, hair in LARGE sections or you will look like Shirley Temple. Tie the ends once and loosely roll up to the scalp. Then tie again to hold in place. Sleep overnight and you got some curls and waves. I recommend that you use this as a base for messy updo's for beginners. If it's too curly mist some water all over to loosen the curl and dry with a scrunching your fingers and a dryer.)

As for colour. Spring is always a nice time to lighten things up. Since the fashion pallet this season calls for bright colours http://www.fashion-era.com/trends_2009/2009-fashion-colour-trends.htm#Spring_2009_Top_Colour_Trend_Tip You may want to keep on the natural side. Solid colour trend is still hot, as is face framing highlights. Forget about chunky Highlights (unless you're starting and emo band) It's OVER! If you like being a bit more adventurous try a placement of colour or blocking. Avoid the high contrasts, go for more of a tone on tone look.

Hues to try for blonde's, Beige, Honey, Platinum, and Gold. RED is making a huge comeback. Copper and strawberry blonde. For brunettes, try some soft highlights around the face and under layers at the nape, go for a couple shades lighter. Going too light will create brassy, streaky, high maintenance hair. All over gloss is nice as well, a shade darker then your natural. Anything goes here, chocolate, nutmeg, maybe even a hint of cranberry or blueberry?

Short Hair Trend, Old is New Again Spring Trends

So I am feeling really old. May is marking my 16th anniversary in Hairdressing. I have officially been in it long enough to see something come back in style. For the last ten years, Short hair ( well short in the REAL sense) has been a no no. Short was maybe chin length. But a pixie? NO way! I speak of course of the mainstream all hail Hollywood standard of extended locks. For the most part there is a whole generation of Millennials that have never had short hair...ever! Crazy!

Well that is changing. Thank goodness! The type of sass an confidence a short cut gives a women is a welcome change to the lady Godiva look of recent years. The difference with the pixie now is that its far more glamorous the it's grunge, Gen X version of the nineties. Fashion is more feminine. It's all about the details, softer styling and edges. Accessorise with some really great statement jewelry. (as above seen on Carey Mulligan)

The other big trend this year summer as we saw last season is Red hair. Copper and titian hues, highlighted or all over, bright and subtle. (think Karen Elson, Ashley Simpson-Wentz, and Rose McGowan)

Now long hair gals...do not fret. Long hair is still "in" But it's definitely more polished. The last few years its been all about tousled, rock and roll, or boho waves, bedhead, disheveled...whatever you wanna call it messy. No more! It's about taking time for the little details, glamour! We are seeing the return of the 40's starlet. soft and smooth waves. More structure and its gorgeous and sexy. I know it sounds like a lot of hard work. But no. If you can wield a flat iron you can wield a curling iron. If that is still too much skill, try some old school hot rollers. I recommend You Tube for styling tutorials, they are amazing to see regular folks like yourselves giving step by step instructions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9KISezxlmc

Does make up expire?

I was watching the Tyra bank show today. I was so ticked off at the misinformation on one segment about women who don't throw out their make up. Yes we are all guilty of hanging onto stuff way too long. But she continued to quiz the audience about the shelf life of everything from lipstick, cleanser, to mascara.

I'm a make up artist. If I threw out my foundations every 3 months like she suggested I would be spending astronomical amounts replenishing my kit. RIDICULOUS! Yet again another show spreading propaganda so you buy more product. (sponser..Cover Girl, shocking!)

Here are the facts. If you treat your make up like I do, no cross contamination, leave the caps on, refrigerate liquids when not in use and use brushes and sponges. Your make up will last three times longer.

Liquid Foundation, 12 months ( most people will use it up sooner then that)

Cream foundation/Concealer, 2 years. Keep in cool dry place use clean applicators or scrap out what you need and apply.

Mascara, 3-4 months. It dries out and will have bacterial growth by that time. Don't pump air into the tube, Keep tightly closed.

Lipstick, Gloss 2-4 years or more depending on quality. I have some MAC lipsticks that I have had for 8 years they are fine. I remove my lipsticks and put them into pallets that cover. I scrape out what I need on a stick and apply with a brush. If you use the tube on your lips, it will expire faster and grow bacteria. ( I still have tubes I uses directly on my mouth but I go through them in less then a year)

Powders, eye shadows. 4 or more years. If you store them in a airtight, dark place out of moisture. They can last forever depending on their oil content.

Liner pencils. 4+ years. Keep the lid on. Keep them in a cool dry place. (they will melt or get crumbly)

Liquid Liner. 6 months, they dry out and will get bacterial growth.


Nail polish, 1 year. You will know it! (separate or thicken.)

Finally WASH you brushes!!! Every month or more. Soak them in a mild shampoo in your bathroom sink. Use fingers to work out any creamy product (with extra shampoo) Do a soaking. Rinse 2 times. Then shape the brushes with your fingers so they retain the shape. Air dry on a towel overnight. In between I dip my brushes in alcohol once a week to kill any bacteria.

DON'T SHARE YOUR MAKE UP!!! Unless you take cross contamination precautions. Herpes people! 80% of the human population have Oral Herpes otherwise know as cold sores. (and yes oral herpes can turn into genital herpes if you get it/have an outbreak and kiss etc your partner) and Pink Eye are the most common infections/virus's you could get with sharing or using expired/ unsanitized make up and brushes.