Fall Winter 2011 trends to watch!

The 70's are back whether we like it or not. It seems it's not localized to the early Hippy/Boho and Mod inspired as in the past but also the Glam Rock mid 70's and the Disco/Punk rock/New wave latter 70's for fashion. I find the hair and makeup seems to be all over the place again this year and does not mesh with the fashion trends. So at least that keeps it modern. There is a lot of choice. I will be happy when the tired Kardashian LA look is over. Let's keep our finger crossed.

Hair. the mid length bob with minimal layers and heavy fringe. Kate moss has been rocking this for a while but it's big this season either blown straight with volume or tousled waved. For long hair, Braids and Bouffant styles are all the rage this season for those wanting to get away from the top knot and surfer girl looks this summer. Amy Winehouse RIP, beehives and Bardot volume gives a nice sex kitten touch. Pixie cuts with lots of texture and softness in the fringe are a great option. Hair colours are going darker and richer are usual. Still in the copper range. For blondes more natural golden/honey shades are great for fall. Perhaps try ombre but with a darker shade like copper, or pinky coral.

Makeup. The metallic bronze, bright orange, and gunmetal smokey eye with nude lips for the evening. Nude makeup, neutrals ( very 70's) looks great on everyone. The strong lip and nude face is big again but with brighter/darker shades. orange, red, purple. Eyebrows are BACK. The last two seasons everyone was reaching for the bleach and the no eyebrow look that Karen Elson and Lara Stone pioneered was everywhere. For fall think Brook Shields meets Liz Taylor meet Audrey Hepburn. Not my favourite and I personally will not be partaking. As I have no eyebrows to speak of. I find this trend strange as it does not reflect the 70's theme. Brows where plucked and thin like the starlets of the 30's or natural. I find that fashion always has a 4 year flow then a backlash that goes against the former trends. So hey maybe thin brows in a couple years? Thick liner and nude lips are still rocking, might be the Amy Winehouse as well. Blush seems to be nonexistent in most of the tears I have seen. But contouring and pale complexion was big. ( also not very 70's)

Thinking about Keratin Straightner?

Well I have been thinking about writing about this for ages. I will preface this with...This is MY opinion on this subject as a beauty pro. I get clients asking me about this service time and time again. It came out a few years ago and has steadily replaced Japanese Straightening and the number one smoothing service around. It claims the following for the clients...

That it causes no damage, is fairly natural as it used a form on protein similar to what our hair is made of. It can be used to repair damaged hair, used in conjunction with other chemical services without adverse reaction. Its semi permanent so one could get this done approximately every 10-12 weeks. So there are no lasting effects if one should want to stop. It cuts drying time down to half. It does not straighten course hair but will make it smoother, easier to dry straighten, and anti humidify it as well.

Marketing this to the stylist goes as such...

Product is inexpensive ( less then 10 an application) and needs very little to perform full service. All profit! Can be performed in the same time as an average colour/ blow dry time depending on hair and can charge upwards of $400+ per service. Clients needs to purchase special keratin shampoo and conditioner for service to last. More Profit! It's safe.

The reality...

The service is expensive, and is only semi permanent. It requires the full service to be done again at the same price within two to three months.  After one month most clients see a significant loss of smoothness as this is a coating that wears off after you wash you hair. You MUST use the keratin replenishing shampoo or you will lose the effects faster. It does not do a thing for thick coarse curly hair. This is mainly for fine to medium texture frizzy hair. Some may get away without styling or blow-drying their hair. Yes it will be faster to dry but by minutes. Many surveys have shown that a large amount of clients have had adverse reactions. Anything from allergies, breathing issues during the service, hair loss, and breakage. After the service is performed you cannot get you hair wet for three days. Nor wear it up on tucked behind you ears as that will kink in for the duration of the product. And finally the main ingredient next to the Keratin is formaldehyde. Its helps in the bonding process and as the hair is ironed it releases a toxic gas that the stylist and the client will be exposed to. Many company's have tried to down play this danger and say they do not have it in their product. Trust me they do have some for. It many have a slightly different chemical name or smaller %. But it is still an active ingredient.

As a stylist there is no way I would expose myself to performing 3 to 4 of these services a day breathing this stuff in. Especially if there is poor ventilation in the salon. In fact I am not a fan of many chemical straightening products. I am always shocked at the length women and men will go to to save precious minutes in the morning.

further reading, viewing.
http://shine.yahoo.com/channel/beauty/are-keratin-hair-treatments-dangerous-2460542/
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/retexturizing/brazilian-keratin-treatment-a-dangerous-price-to-pay-for-beauty
http://safecosmetics.org/article.php?id=771
Good Hair a documentary by Chris Rock ( yes that one) About the Afro-Carribean culture in America's obsession with so called "good hair" i.e. Silky straight hair.








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New cheap and cheerful spring beauty

Spring is in the air! It makes me want to shop! New New New everything! However my pocket book right now says ...no. But don't despair. There are plenty of money saving products out there that will save you some bucks and you can still look fab!

Colour! Now I am still a big advocate of demi permanent colour. It's the most forgiving and least damaging option out there. However, for some that will not cover any greys. L'oreal and Clariol have come out with Foam Permanent hair dye. It promises the easiest application ever. No mess, and 100% grey coverage! Now most important thing to remember is getting the colour right! When people complain about bad results...it's usually the wrong shade or bad application. Be safe. Pick the most neutral colour. Ash colours will be darker, and anything that says "gold" will be really warm (red brassy) The only concern I have is retouching the roots with mousse? Strawberry blonde and copper are very trendy now. I would still stick to demi if you decide for a change down the road, it is harder to remove permanent.

Highlights should be left to the pros. Grown out colour is great and the cheapest way to go through the summer. For those who wish DYI Ombre. It's actually a really easy technique called balliage. Literally hair painting. It works best if you have naturally blondish hair. Just chose a colour that is really only a couple shades lighter to start. If you have colour or dark hair or you want something more extreme go to a pro or you will look like a tie dyed tiger. Another fun option is doing a bright semi permanent or temporary shade on the ends. Pastel shade are nice like yellow, orange or pink. They will wash out in a few shampoos. Works best on blonde hair. Use Manic Panic and dilute it with conditioner so it is not so neon!



http://www.lorealparis.ca/haircolour/highlights-and-professional-techniques-colour/touch-on-highlights.aspx
http://www.garnier.ca/_en/_ca/haircolour/hcl-nutrisse-cream/multi-lights-kit.htm

Try youtube for more vids on DYI Ombre!

http://schoee.blogspot.com/2010/09/diy-ombre-hair.html



You want an instant update for make up. Completion is important. Our skin is usually oily in the summer. Using a concealer and a bit of powder/bronzer is all most people need. I like using a Mineral foundation like L'oreal Bare Naturale. $15 It is everything, foundation, concealer with a dewy finish. It feels like nothing on. I am kinda old...:( so I like that it doesn't crease or look cakey. Bare Essentuals $30 has the best mineral foundation. But it's a bit more pricey. Worth it! Almay also has a new Mineral foundation out there for sensitive dry skin. Almay Wake Up $17. Don't forget the Moisturiser with SPF 15 or higher!!

Update your lips. Bright colours is an esay way to add a pop of colour.
Cargo has a great lip gloss Quad $24
Rimmel lasting finish, $7 Bright pink In Vogue, coral Alarm,
Mac new line of Sheen Supreme lipstick. High pigment gloss in intense colours. $14.50

Waves and texture are super easy for the summer. Start with a wave or beach texterizer. Kevin Murphy Beach Resort $22 great for any hair type. Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, $25 or Garnier Surf Hair comes in spray or cream $10. This works best with layered or textured hair. You just apply liberally and allow to dry naturally. This is supposed to be messy, beachy, matte waves or curls.
If messy is not your bag, and you are more sophisticated. Good old hot rollers will do the trick. use the old school ones. Modern waves are not about root volume it's more about curling the mid lenghths and ends. Try watching some podcast to get the visual how to. kevinmurphy.com has a series of DYI podcasts. for ideas.
http://www.conair.com/xtreme-instant-heat-multisized-hot-rollers-p-683-1_14.html

Trending For Spring

Been while and many new changes have happened in my life. I have changed salons after nearly 6 years in the same location. Change is good. Now that we are well into February everyone seems to have the blahs. The cold weather the drab colours and just being plain old sick and tired of staying in and doing nothing. I find as a stylist this is my quietest time of year. the calm before the storm if you will. After March break when we get the first glimpse of what is to come for spring...the calls start to flood back in. I NEED A CHANGE!!!

Well some things to look for this spring is simplicity. The 70's is a huge trend. Long hair, straight, wavy, curly you name it. Centre parts, texture and neutral tones. Think brown honey wheat and copper!

If long is not your style, the wavy shoulder length bob is going to be huge again this year. Ombre (grown out) colour will still be a hit as well. Don't forget the super cropped pixie cut think Rosemary's Baby era Mia Farrow will be great to freashen up some dull locks.